Fort St Elmo sits at the very tip of the Valletta peninsula, where the walls meet the open sea. It was the first place the Ottoman forces attacked in 1565, and it is still a place where the thickness of the walls tells the story before any display does.
A fort that became a museum
The museum is housed in the fort and was founded in 1975 by a group of people interested in military history. It began in the gunpowder store of the fort. In 1853 the room was refitted as an armoury, and during the Second World War shells for the air defence system were kept here.
At the start of the 21st century the fort was closed for restoration, and the museum was updated, its exhibitions rearranged and new objects added.
What the museum covers
The main focus is the history of Malta in the First and Second World Wars, although the collection of arms and equipment reaches back much further. You see photographs of the war years, military honours, uniforms, weapons and equipment from several periods.
The Second World War section is the most absorbing. Malta endured one of the longest sustained bombing campaigns of the war, and the displays explain how the island held out. German and Italian torpedoes, anti-tank guns and gas masks sit beside personal items.
The George Cross
Among the most important exhibits is the George Cross, awarded to Malta by King George VI in 1942 for the courage of its people. It is a rare collective honour, and it still appears in the top corner of the Maltese flag.
Biographies of people who took part in the defence are told in separate rooms, which brings the story down to the level of individuals. Two objects draw regular attention: Faith, a Gloster Sea Gladiator that became a symbol of the air defence of Malta, and a wartime jeep linked with General Eisenhower.
Reconstructions and the In Guardia parade
Historical reconstructions of prominent battles are among the museum’s most memorable features. They help explain the layout of the harbour and the fortifications, and they work well for visitors who are not specialists.
On certain Sundays, the fort also hosts the In Guardia parade, in which actors dressed as the Knights show drill, sword work and the firing of old guns. When it takes place, the museum opens later in the day, so plan around it if you want both.
The adjacent building
The adjoining building was once a hospital, and today it shows a documentary about Maltese history. The film is a good way to tie the many periods together, and it provides a seated break in the middle of a long walk through the fort.
Practical details
The fort is partly outdoors, with steps, ramparts and open courtyards. In summer the sun is strong, and the wind off the sea can be sharp in winter. Wear shoes with grip and bring a hat or a jacket depending on the season.
Entry rates for adults, young people, seniors and students are on the listing, with free entry for infants. The museum is closed on a few major holidays, so check the calendar if you travel at Christmas or Easter.
The siege of 1565
Fort St Elmo played a central part in the Great Siege. Its garrison held out for weeks against the Ottoman assault before the fort fell, and that delay gave the defenders in the rest of the Grand Harbour time to prepare. The museum helps you understand this by showing the age of the fort itself, and the layout of the walls matters more than the labels.
Walk the ramparts after the displays. From the seaward side you look straight out to the open Mediterranean, and in the other direction across the harbour mouth to Fort Ricasoli. The geography is easy to grasp, and it explains why control of this point decided so much.
Around the fort
Casa Rocca Piccola, a noble house open to visitors, the Knights Hospitallers display and the church of St Nicholas are within a short walk. A longer loop along the seafront gives a view across the harbour to Fort Ricasoli and the Three Cities.
Go in the morning before the sun is high, spend the middle of the day inside the exhibits, and finish with a walk to the Upper Barrakka Gardens for the view over the Grand Harbour.
