At the tip of Valletta, the land runs out in a point of stone and the sea begins. Fort St Elmo is built on that point, and it feels like the bow of a ship made of limestone. Hundreds of years ago it was the place where Malta’s survival hung in the balance.
A watchtower that became a fortress
Before it was a fort, the site held a lone watchtower erected in 1488 by order of the Spanish royal dynasty. At the time it was one of the main strategic points of Malta. In 1533 the tower was expanded and strengthened, turning into a small fortress. Even so, it proved too weak against the Ottoman threat.
In 1552 the fortification was built in its new form, named for Saint Elmo, patron saint of Mediterranean sailors. It separates Marsamxett Harbour from the Grand Harbour, and it guarded the entrances to both.
The Great Siege
The test came in 1565, during the Great Siege of Malta, which lasted from 18 May to 11 September. St Elmo became the scene of the most furious fighting. For a month the defenders resisted the massive shelling of the Turkish army, and the fort was almost destroyed. When Valletta was built beside it, the fort was reconstructed and strengthened.
That sacrifice bought time for the rest of the island. Today the fort gives visitors the chance to stand on the same ground and look at the harbours that the defenders were guarding.
Later history
The building of the new city did not do the knights’ military discipline any good, and they began to construct luxurious palaces for themselves and to enjoy a comfortable life. When the Napoleonic fleet appeared near the shore of Marsamxett Harbour in 1798, the knights not only refused to resist but welcomed the French army with hospitality. Perhaps because of this, the fort avoided further ruin.
Until the beginning of the twenty-first century the fort was in danger of falling apart because of high humidity and lack of care. It was restored and in 2014 opened again to the public.
What you can do there
Today the fort is no longer used for its original purpose. It is a tourist attraction and houses the National War Museum, where you can see war equipment and weapons, starting with prehistoric times. Theatrical performances and historical reconstructions of past events add life to the walls.
On Sundays the fort hosts the In Guardia parade, a military display. When it is scheduled, the museum opens later in the day than usual. Heritage Malta runs the site, and its website, heritagemalta.org, gives current times and ticket details.
Seeing it well
The best view of the star shape of the fort is from the ramparts and from the water. Plan around the heat in summer: the open walls throw back the sun and there is little shade. Early in the morning or late in the afternoon are the best times.
Lower Barrakka Gardens, the Siege Bell War Memorial and the National War Museum are all within a short walk, and together they make a half-day around the siege story. Wear flat shoes, since the pavements and fort floors are of uneven limestone, and bring water.
The shape of the fort
From the ramparts the plan of St Elmo is easy to read. The fort’s angular bastions point toward the sea, giving defenders clear lines of fire along the walls. A moat once cut the fort off from the land side, and the layout shows how each part could protect the next.
Take your time on the lower levels too. The thick walls, the narrow openings and the sense of enclosure explain why a garrison could hold on under such heavy bombardment. In the afternoon sun, the pale limestone seems to glow, and the harbours on either side seem very close.
Combining it with the rest of Valletta
St Elmo sits at the far end of the peninsula, so a visit usually means a walk along one of the city’s main streets and back. That walk is part of the pleasure, passing Valletta’s churches, palaces and cafes. Plan to eat in town before or after, and leave enough time to see the Lower Barrakka Gardens, which offer another fine harbour view.
If the weather is hot, carry water, keep to the shade where possible and time the fort for the cooler end of the day. The Sunday parade is a popular draw, so those who want a quieter visit may prefer a weekday.
