The road north climbs steadily, the fields thin out, and then the land opens on the sea. Mellieħa sits on a ridge at the northern end of Malta, with the bay laid out below it and the islands of Comino and Gozo visible on a clear day. For many visitors, this part of the island is a base for beaches, for the ferry and for a quieter pace than the central resorts.
The old town on the ridge
The centre of Mellieħa lies along the top of the hill, around the parish church. Streets run steeply downhill towards the sea, and the views from the edge of the ridge are the main attraction of an evening walk. The town has the feel of a village that grew into a resort, with cafes, restaurants and shops around the main square. Its name is linked to the Maltese word for salt, a reminder of the old salt marsh near the bay.
Below the church, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieħa is a cave chapel that has drawn pilgrims for centuries. It is a quiet place, and well worth a short stop. Opening arrangements vary, so check locally before going.
The war shelter
Cut by hand into the soft rock, the Mellieħa Air Raid Shelter is one of the largest in Malta, with hundreds of metres of passages. Inside are living rooms, a maternity section and anti-blast chambers, and the corridors tell the story of the war years more plainly than any display. It makes a good first stop, since it is cool inside on a hot morning.
Mellieħa Bay
Downhill, Mellieħa Bay, also called Għadira, is the longest sandy beach on the island. The sand is fine, the water shallow for a long way out, and the waves are usually small, which makes it the favourite with families. In season, sunbeds, umbrellas and water-sports gear are hired along the shore, and kiosks sell snacks.
Behind the beach, the Għadira Nature Reserve preserves a salt marsh managed as a bird sanctuary. It is most rewarding in spring and autumn, when migrating birds stop to rest, and it is open on a seasonal basis, so check before a visit. Waders and herons are among the species often seen.
Beyond the main beach
North of the town the coast breaks into smaller bays. Paradise Bay is a sandy cove near Ċirkewwa, reached by a long flight of steps, and it is calm and sheltered. To the west, Tuffieha Bay and Golden Bay offer wilder stretches of sand and cliffs. Gnejna Bay sits a little further along the coast and is popular with locals.
Inland on the Selmun peninsula, Selmun Palace stands on a green hill, a pale eighteenth-century building with battlements that looks like a toy castle from the road. It is seen from outside, and the lane towards it is good for a short drive or walk.
Popeye Village
On the north-west coast, Popeye Village was built as a film set for the 1980 musical Popeye and now operates as a family attraction on Anchor Bay. The crooked wooden houses above the clear water are a striking sight even from the cliff road. It suits families with children, and a half day is enough for most visits.
The ferries to Gozo and Comino
Ċirkewwa lies a few minutes beyond Mellieħa. From here the Gozo Channel ferry sails to Mġarr on Gozo, and boats to Blue Lagoon on Comino also leave from the area. Anyone staying in Mellieħa has the shortest route to both. The Gozo ferry guide explains the crossing and the ticket arrangements.
Where to stay
Mellieħa offers a choice between the ridge and the bay. The old centre has smaller hotels and guesthouses with views and a village feel, while the bay area has larger hotels and apartments within a few steps of the sand. Staying on the ridge means a bus or taxi to the beach, and staying at the bay means a climb to the old town. Both work, and the better pick depends on whether beach days or evenings in town matter more.
Planning a day
Start at the shelter or the sanctuary while the town is cool and quiet, then walk down to the bay for a swim and lunch. If energy remains, visit the nature reserve behind the beach or take the bus to Popeye Village. In summer, arrive at the bay before ten, since the best spots on the sand go early. Plan the walk back up the hill for the late afternoon, or hail a taxi, and leave time to watch the light on the water from the ridge before dinner.
