Seen from the water, the colour looks wrong. A strip of sea between two low, bare islands glows a pale turquoise that seems lit from underneath, and boats of every size sit at anchor in it with their hulls floating above white sand. This is the Blue Lagoon, the most photographed stretch of water in Malta.
The setting
The lagoon lies in the narrow channel between Comino, the middle island of the Maltese archipelago, and Cominotto, a small uninhabited islet beside it. The water is shallow, and the bottom is pale sand, which reflects the light and turns the water cyan. On a calm day with the sun high, the colour is hard to describe, and photographs rarely exaggerate it.
Comino itself is a rocky island with little vegetation, a handful of residents and a protected status as a nature area. The lagoon is the only part of the island that most visitors see, and it is entirely about the water.
Getting there
There is no road and no bridge, so you arrive by boat. Services run from Ċirkewwa in the north of Malta and from Mġarr in Gozo, and day cruises start from several resorts on the main island. Crossings from Ċirkewwa and Mġarr are short. Schedules change with the season, and in winter services are much reduced, so check the operator’s timetable before you plan.
Some boats offer trips that include a tour of the sea caves around the islands before landing at the lagoon. These are a good way to see the coast, though they add to the time.
In the water
The main activity is swimming. The water is clear, calm and warm in summer, and shallow near the sandy areas. Children can paddle safely in the shallows, though they should be supervised, as boats move in and out. Snorkellers do well along the rocky edges, where small fish gather, and divers use nearby sites.
The shoreline is mostly rock with a narrow patch of sand, so wear water shoes. You can lie on the rocks or on hired sunbeds and umbrellas where they are offered. Check what is available on the day, since facilities change.
Crowds and timing
In July and August the lagoon is one of the busiest places in Malta. Boats arrive from mid-morning, and the water fills with swimmers, inflatables and music from the larger vessels. If you want a calm swim, go on the first boat of the day or on a late one, and stay after the main wave has left.
Spring and autumn are quieter, and the water is still comfortable in May and October for those used to cooler sea temperatures. In winter the lagoon is nearly empty, and the island is better for walking than swimming.
Away from the water
Many visitors never leave the lagoon, but Comino has walking paths across the island. The island is known for wild thyme and herbs, and in winter and spring the scent is strong. A path leads up to Santa Marija Tower, a fortification built by the Knights, and another to a small chapel. The island is a bird sanctuary and nature reserve, and the terrain is open and exposed, so walks require a hat and water.
The landscape has also been used by filmmakers. Productions including The Count of Monte Cristo and Swept Away were shot on Comino, and its coves and bare rock have stood in for places far from Malta.
What to bring
Shade is scarce, so a hat, sun cream and a light shirt matter. Bring a towel, water shoes and plenty of drinking water. A small kiosk may be open in season, but supplies run out, and prices are higher than on the mainland.
Take all your rubbish back with you. The lagoon sits in a protected area, and waste left behind is quickly visible.
Planning the day
Plan at least half a day, and book return boat times so you are not stranded when services stop. Early morning is the best moment for the colour and the quiet. On a Gozo trip, Comino fits neatly into the crossing: ride from Ċirkewwa, spend a few hours in the lagoon, and continue to Mġarr by boat or ferry later in the day. Check the weather first, since boats do not run in rough seas.
