A pool of dark blue sits behind a wall of rock, and you can see the open sea through a gap in the wall. That is the Inland Sea, a lagoon on the Dwejra coast of Gozo and one of the easiest places on the islands to understand how limestone and water shape each other.
A lagoon with a tunnel
The Inland Sea, called Qawra in Maltese, is a seawater basin connected to the Mediterranean by a tunnel through a natural arch. The tunnel is wide enough for small boats to pass in fine weather, so you can often see boats afloat or moored along the stony inner shore.
Near the shore the lagoon is shallow. Pebbles and rocks are visible on the bottom for a long way out, and small fish gather in the shallows. As you move away from the shore the bottom drops quickly.
Boat rides
When the weather is fine, local boatmen take visitors through the tunnel and out into the open sea. The trip gives a view of the cliffs from below and of the coast around Dwejra, and it is the easiest way to feel the scale of the rock.
The passage is narrow, and the boats go only when the sea is calm. In rough weather the tunnel is closed, and the lagoon becomes a quiet backwater behind a wall of surf.
Diving the tunnel
The lagoon is popular with divers. In good weather and calm water, divers can swim along the tunnel, an underwater canyon about 80 metres long. The cliffs on both sides are almost vertical, with fissures, and they are richly covered in marine life.
The average depth of the lagoon is about 18 metres, with some points reaching 25 to 60 metres. The tunnel and surroundings are often named as the best dive site in Malta, and some divers call it one of the best in the world. It is often said that Jacques Cousteau counted a dive here among the ten best of his life.
Dives must be arranged with a licensed operator, who will check the sea state and decide entry and exit points.
Walking and watching
Not everyone dives. The Inland Sea suits walkers, photographers and anyone who likes to sit by water. A rambling route along the cliffs gives views down into the lagoon and out to sea, and the path passes the site of the Azure Window and Fungus Rock.
The shoreline is rough and stony, so wear shoes with grip. The light at the end of the day colours the cliffs and the water, and it is a good time for photographs.
How the lagoon formed
The lagoon exists because the sea cut through the rock. A cave or arch opened a passage, and the basin behind it filled. Over time the roof of the passage thinned, and the same process which created the Azure Window created the tunnel. On this coast, caves, tunnels and arches are normal, and the Inland Sea shows one stage in the process.
Combining with Dwejra
A visit takes about an hour or two. The Azure Window site and Fungus Rock are a few minutes’ walk, and the Dwejra watch tower stands on the shore nearby. A short circuit takes in all of them.
After the visit, many people drive to Xlendi Bay for a swim and lunch, or on to Victoria and the Citadel. A day that moves from the wild west coast to a harbour village is a good contrast.
Why divers rate it
Diving here is about shapes more than creatures. The tunnel is a straight cut through the rock, with light entering from both ends, and the walls are lined with life. The canyon runs to a depth that suits experienced divers, and the entry from the lagoon is calm compared with the open coast.
Snorkellers can enjoy the shallow part of the lagoon, where the water is clear and fish are easy to spot. Do not swim towards the tunnel without a guide, since boats pass through and the current can change.
Keeping it clean
The lagoon is small and sheltered, and litter collects quickly. Take rubbish home, avoid feeding fish, and keep fuel and sunscreen away from the water as far as you can. Visitors in large numbers over the years have made care for the shore a real concern.
Practical points
There is little shade, so carry water and a hat. The car park fills in summer, so come early. Wear shoes that can get wet if you plan to walk near the water.
Boats run according to the weather, so ask locally before arranging a ride or a dive. The sea can change quickly on this coast, even on days that look calm from the cliff.
