Every Maltese guidebook once opened its Gozo chapter with the same photograph: a huge doorway of limestone with the sea showing through. That arch is gone, but the headland it grew from is still there, and Dwejra remains one of the best places on the islands to watch weather and water at work.
What the Azure Window was
The Azure Window was a natural limestone arch on the west coast of Gozo, formed when the sea eroded a headland into a tall opening. For decades it was one of the most photographed sights in the Maltese islands. It featured on postcards, in tourist brochures and in films and television series, and many visitors came to Gozo for this single view.
Natural arches do not last forever. Waves and weather work on the base and the span, and the arch had been losing rock for years.
The 2017 collapse
In March 2017, during a storm, the arch collapsed into the sea. What had stood for generations fell in a few moments. Only the underwater remains of its columns survive.
The loss was felt strongly in Gozo and across Malta, where the arch had become a national symbol. It is also a reminder that the coast is a living thing. The same processes that made the arch removed it, and they continue along the nearby cliffs.
A new place to dive
Divers now visit the fallen blocks, which have created a new underwater terrain of boulders, gaps and ledges. Dwejra was already one of the most popular diving areas in Malta, with sites for experienced and less experienced divers. The collapse added to the choice.
Diving here depends on sea conditions, which change quickly on this exposed coast. Use a licensed dive operator, who will judge the day and decide where to enter.
What remains above water
The wider Dwejra area continues to draw walkers and photographers. The shore is a rough pavement of pale limestone, cut by channels and pools where the sea swells in and out. On a calm day you can stand close to the water and look at the layers in the cliffs and the colours of the sea.
The Inland Sea and Fungus Rock lie immediately beside the old arch site. Together they make an easy half-day circuit on foot, with views in all directions.
A walk around Dwejra
From the car park you can walk to the Inland Sea first, then follow the path along the cliff towards the former arch and look across to Fungus Rock. The paths are mostly open and rocky, with little shade, so wear sturdy shoes.
Further along the coast, another natural arch, the Wied il-Mielaħ Window, is a quieter alternative for people who wanted to see a sea arch and are willing to go a little farther. It makes a pleasant addition if you have a car and a spare hour.
Why arches fall
A sea arch is a stage in a long process. Waves attack a headland along weak lines, open a cave, then cut through to form an arch. Over time the span thins and the supports weaken, until the arch falls and leaves a stack. Gozo’s limestone sits on softer clay in places, which speeds the process, and the coast here faces the open sea.
Looking along the cliffs around Dwejra, you can see other stages of the same story: caves, undercut ledges and fallen blocks. The Azure Window was the most famous example, but the coast remains a good place to read how it changes.
Reading the new coastline
The place where the arch stood looks different now. The headland is shorter, the sea reaches further in, and the fallen rock lies just below the surface. On a clear day, from the shore, you can see where the span once ran and imagine its scale.
Photographers still come for the cliffs and the colours of the water. The sunset angle is wide and open, so the evening light is easier to use than it was when the arch stood in the way.
When to go
Late afternoon is the favourite time, when the sun drops over the sea and the limestone turns warm in colour. Mornings are quieter and cooler. In summer, midday is hot and exposed, and the car park fills quickly, so plan an earlier arrival.
In winter and spring the sea can be rough, which makes Dwejra dramatic but also dangerous near the shore. Stay on higher paths and watch waves from a distance.
Practical points
There is little shade, so bring water, a hat and sun protection. Wear shoes with grip, because wet limestone is slippery. Swimming is possible from rock on calm days, but the water is deep and the swell can change quickly, so judge your ability honestly.
Pair the visit with the Inland Sea and Fungus Rock in the same area, and drive or take the bus on to Xlendi or Victoria afterwards. Xlendi Bay is the usual next stop for a late swim and dinner by the water.
