Entering through the arch
The mouth of the cave is the first thing that stays in the memory. It is a huge, semi-circular opening, wide enough that the light spills far inside, and under it lies a tumble of boulders that gives the entrance its rough character. Beyond the boulders the floor changes to sand, which runs on into the cavern in a long, silty slope.
This is a cavern dive and not a true cave penetration, and the distinction matters. You stay within reach of the opening and within sight of daylight, and the route is a loop that you can leave at either side. That makes it manageable for divers with some experience, as long as buoyancy is good.
The slope and its anemones
At around 21 metres the silty sand rises under the cavern roof, and this is where the large burrowing firework anemones live. Cerianthus membranaceus is one of the more theatrical animals in the Mediterranean: a long tube set in the sand, topped by a ring of fine tentacles that retract in an instant if disturbed. A torch will bring out the colours, usually pale violet or cream, and a slow approach will let you watch them expand again.
The entrance also has a good number of marine goldfish, the anthias, which are quite rare around the islands. They hang in the light near the mouth of the cave, small orange fish that dart when approached. A quiet hover at the edge of the arch is the best way to see them.
Staying out of the silt
The floor is fine and easily raised. One badly placed fin kick and the visibility drops, and everyone behind you has to wait for it to clear. If it happens, do not panic. The standard exit is to swim to either side of the cavern and follow the wall around until you reach the opening, keeping a hand on your buddy and an eye on your guide.
Good practice here means short, deliberate kicks, a horizontal trim and no contact with the floor. Divers with a camera should shoot from above the sediment and never rest on it.
The wall to the north
Turning right on leaving the cavern, you come to a vertical wall that drops to 30 metres. It is a crowded piece of rock. Look for hermit crabs, starfish and tube worms in the crevices, and for small, colourful scorpionfish, Scorpaena notata, which sit still enough to be mistaken for stone.
In open water the usual Mediterranean cast turns up. Painted comber are everywhere, along with parrotfish, amberjack, wrasse and damselfish. The mix makes the dive feel full, even though none of the animals is particularly large.
Bristle worms, Hermodice carunculata, are prevalent too. They are decorative and stinging, so keep skin off the rock, particularly during safety stops.
Gozo diving in context
Gozo is a regular destination for divers who want less traffic than the big Malta boat sites. Cavern dives, arches and walls sit within a short distance of each other, and dive centres on the island build their days around them. Coral Cave is one of the dives that shows why: it combines a geological structure with a population of animals that are visibly attached to it.
If you plan to stay a few days, a sensible progression is to begin with an easier shore dive to check weight and trim, then move on to caverns such as this one. Nearby sites, including the Blue Hole and the Inland Sea tunnel, offer a different kind of scenery and can fill the next day.
Before you go
Book with a licensed operator and bring your certification card, logbook and a torch if the centre does not supply one. Cold water is common in winter and spring, so check the exposure suit you are offered. A hot drink and a dry layer for the surface interval make a bigger difference than most people expect.
Ask the guide to explain the exit plan before you enter the water. Then enjoy the pace: slow, with a hand on nothing, and your eyes on the anemones.
Pair the dive with an afternoon in Victoria or at the harbour in Mgarr, and keep the evening free for dinner and a rest.
