At first sight Fungus Rock is just a block of limestone standing in the sea at the edge of Dwejra Bay. It is only when you know what grew on top of it that the place becomes interesting, because for centuries the Knights treated this rock as a treasure.
Where it stands
The islet rises about 60 metres and lies roughly 60 metres off the Gozo mainland, next to the site of the old Azure Window. From the sea it appears almost at the entrance to the Dwejra lagoon, in the middle of the bay’s curve. An opening in the rock creates water reflections along its base.
The vertical walls and fissures give the rock its character, and the best views come from the shore path near the Inland Sea.
The plant on top
The name comes from a plant found on the summit, known as Għerq is-Sinjur or Fungus Gaulitanus. It was found by the commander of the Maltese galleys. The plant had an unattractive appearance and an unpleasant smell, yet it was considered a treasure of medicine at the time.
It was thought to be a parasitic flowering plant, and people believed it cured dysentery and bleeding and acted as a remedy for other conditions. Only a few rocks supported this rare plant.
Guarded by the Knights
To protect the plant, the Knights of the Order of St John decided to defend the rock. Three years as an oarsman in the galleys, or even the death penalty, awaited anyone who tried to steal it. Only noblemen of Malta could collect the plant.
The fungus was well known across Europe, so it needed protection from foreign raiders arriving by sea. The coast was also watched from the Dwejra watch tower, which stands on the shore close by.
From rock to hospital
Doctors at the hospital in Valletta used the plant regularly. They dried it and gave it as a mixture, or used it on wounds to stop bleeding. Because the hospital needed a constant supply, the Knights set up a system to carry the plant from the rock to the mainland.
The system was a basket on a rope, which moved the cargo across the gap by mechanical means. It was a forerunner of the cable car, and one of the details that visitors like most.
What science says
Pharmacologists have studied the plant, and it seems that the efforts to protect it were out of proportion to its real power. Even so, the story has a particular charm, and it is part of why the rock is remembered. It is a good example of how value is made by belief and scarcity.
A nature reserve
In 1992 the rock was declared a nature reserve. Landing is not allowed, and visitors enjoy it from a distance. This protects the plant, the birds that use the rock and the rock itself, which is fragile limestone.
From the shore you can see the stone cliffs and the way waves have undercut the base. In rough weather the sea breaks hard along the foot of the rock, which is a good reason to stay on the path.
Around the rock
Fungus Rock sits in the middle of a compact area that also contains the Inland Sea and the site of the Azure Window. A walk takes you between all three in under an hour, though many people stay longer for the light and the views.
The Dwejra watch tower is close, and the cliffs beyond give wide views of the coast. If you want to swim or eat, Xlendi Bay is a short drive east, with restaurants along the front.
How the rock fits Dwejra
Dwejra is a small bay with a big collection of features: the lagoon, the rock, the former arch and the cliffs. Fungus Rock is the most photogenic of these in calm weather, because it stands apart and catches the evening light on its western face.
The rock also shows how Gozo’s limestone erodes. Cracks run down its sides, and the waves have cut a deep notch at the base. Over time that undercutting will shape the rock further, as it did the arch beside it.
Practical points
There is little shade at Dwejra, so a hat and water are essential in summer. The path along the shore is rocky and uneven, so wear sturdy shoes. Late afternoon gives the best light for photographs of the rock, with the sun low over the sea behind it.
Do not try to reach the rock or climb on loose boulders at the shore. Boat trips along the coast sometimes pass the rock in calm weather, and local operators can say whether the sea allows it.
