Naxxar’s main square is quiet by Maltese standards, with a parish church on one side and a plain-looking palace on the other. The unassuming front does not prepare you for the interior or for the gardens that open behind it.
A stately home on the square
Palazzo Parisio stands on the main square of Naxxar and is among the most opulent stately homes in Malta. It was built on the site of an earlier palace commissioned by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. In the early 20th century, the Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna transformed it into a lavish residence, often compared to a miniature Versailles.
The palace and its gardens remain in private ownership. They are open to visitors, and the grounds also serve as a setting for events and weddings.
Inside the palace
The interior is richly decorated. Among the rooms are formal staterooms, a ballroom and a chapel, all showing the taste of a wealthy family of the early 1900s. Gilding, painted ceilings and heavy furniture dominate.
The contrast with the plain exterior is striking. Malta has many palaces of this kind, but few that are open to ordinary visitors, so a guided or self-guided walk through the rooms gives a rare look into aristocratic life.
The gardens
Behind the palace lie formal gardens in the Baroque style. The beds are edged with clipped hedges, and fountains stand along the paths. Citrus trees give shade and colour, and a sunken Italianate parterre forms the centrepiece.
Gardens of this kind are rare on the islands, where space is tight and water is scarce, and they offer a green retreat that contrasts with the heavily decorated rooms. In spring the scent of citrus blossom is strong, and in summer the shade is welcome.
Events and access
Because the palace is privately owned and used for events, access is not always the same. Weddings and private functions may close parts of the building or garden. No opening hours or fees are given in this guide, so check with the palace before making a special trip.
If you want a quiet visit, a weekday morning is a good bet. Afternoons are warm and the palace can be busy with groups.
Naxxar and nearby
Naxxar itself is a town of narrow streets around the square, with the parish church facing the palace. The Victoria Lines, a long fortification wall built by the British across the north of the island, run close by and are popular with walkers.
The Mosta Dome is a short drive away, and the valley of Wied il-Għasel in Mosta gives a more natural setting for a stroll. Combining the palace with a walk in the valley gives a day that mixes gardens, history and countryside.
A garden in a dry island
Water is scarce in Malta, and formal gardens need a lot of it. Looking at how the beds, fountains and citrus trees are arranged tells you how much care the owners put in. Citrus trees were long associated with Maltese estates, and the sunken parterre gives a view down on the pattern of the beds from the paths above.
Wander slowly and notice the contrast between the open, sunny garden and the shaded loggias. Benches are placed where the shade is best, and a quiet half hour on one of them is a good way to end the visit.
The Scicluna years
Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna was a wealthy figure of the early 20th century, and he remodelled the house on the scale of a great European residence. The ballroom and the chapel were part of that plan, and the staterooms were furnished for entertaining. The comparison with Versailles is a stretch, but it captures the ambition of a family that wanted to show its standing.
Today the house is a rare survivor of that period in Malta. Grand private houses with their gardens still in place are not common on the islands, which makes this one worth the stop.
Practical points
Take comfortable shoes, since garden paths and the old floors are uneven. A sun hat is useful in summer, though the citrus trees offer some shade. Photography rules vary between rooms, so ask before taking pictures indoors.
Allow between one and two hours, longer if you stop for a coffee. Buses from Valletta and Sliema reach Naxxar and drop you at the square. After the visit, walk to the church and have a drink in one of the cafes on the square before heading on to Mosta.
