Most visitors to Mosta come for the great domed church in the town centre. A few minutes’ walk away the town stops, and a green valley begins, with trees, pools and chapels where the sound of traffic fades.
A valley with a long reach
Wied il-Għasel is a valley in Mosta that forms part of one long valley, a wied, which reaches about 14.4 kilometres. This longer system forms an important link in Malta’s second largest water catchment.
Because Malta has no permanent rivers, valleys like this carry the runoff from the rainy season. Water from the Rabat plateau drains into the valley, and that explains why it is greener than the farmland around it.
The name
The valley takes its name from the wayside chapel built there in 1760, and the chapel takes its name from honey. According to a common belief, honey was once so abundant that it overflowed from the rock. Folklore says bees in the cracks produced so much that it trickled along the valley floor.
The story is a tale, but it reflects the fact that wild bees do nest in the rock, and honey has long been a local product.
Plants and animals
The valley hosts many species of flora, some of them endemic to Malta. Among the trees and large shrubs are common species such as carob, fig and olive. In the rainy season, pools and streams bring the sound and feel of water to the habitat.
Fauna is present as well, from tadpoles and frogs to bees, beetles and wall lizards. Moving slowly, and stopping to look at the water and the rock cracks, will show you more than a fast walk.
Winter and spring
The valley is at its best in winter and spring, when water and nature are at their height. After rain the pools fill, plants grow quickly, and flowers appear along the edges. In summer it dries out, and the walk is a more modest experience.
Plan a visit after a spell of rain if you want the full effect, and check the weather first, because paths can be muddy and slippery.
Protected status
The area is listed as an Area of High Landscape Value and has been declared a nature reserve. It is Mosta’s most important natural habitat. Staying on the paths, taking rubbish home and not picking plants helps keep it in good condition.
Three chapels
Three wayside chapels stand along this stretch of the valley. San Pawl tal-Qlejgħa is dedicated to the Shipwreck of St Paul, Ta’ l-Isperanza has its own small setting, and San Pawl l-Eremita completes the group. They are small, and sit among trees and rock. Seeing them gives the walk a sense of continuity with the people who lived along the valley.
Around Mosta
The Mosta Dome, among the largest church domes in Europe, is a short distance away and is a natural first stop. Lija Belvedere Tower and the Victoria Lines, a long fortification wall built by the British across the north of the island, are also close. Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar lies a few minutes away by car.
A good plan is to see the Dome in the morning, walk in the valley before the heat, and have lunch in Mosta.
What to look for on the walk
Start by looking at the water. Pools hold tadpoles in spring, and dragonflies appear around them. Then look at the trees: carob pods hang in clusters, fig leaves shade the paths, and olive trees stand on old terraces. Stone walls mark former fields along the valley sides and show that people once farmed the terraces.
Look up at the rock walls as well. Cracks and ledges are the places where wild bees and other insects nest, which links back to the old honey story. A slow walk of an hour will show more than a fast two-hour hike.
The valley as a water route
Because the valley collects rainwater from the Rabat plateau, it shows on a small scale how water moves through the island. After heavy rain, water rushes down the valley and floods low points. After a dry spell it disappears into the rock. If you walk here after a storm, take extra care with the paths and stay away from the stream bed.
Practical points
Wear shoes with grip, since paths can be rough or wet. Carry water, a hat and insect repellent in the warm months. There are no facilities in the valley itself, so use the cafes in Mosta before or after.
A walk takes between one and two hours depending on how far you go. Buses from Valletta and Sliema reach Mosta, and from there you can walk to the valley. In dry summer weather, go early in the morning, when the air is cooler and birds are active.
