A warship with two flags
Most wrecks on a dive map have a straightforward story: a ship was old, so it was sunk. The P31 has a more interesting life. She was built in East Germany and carried the name Pasewalk, with the pennant GS05, as a minesweeper of the Kondor I class. She served in the Volksmarine, the East German navy.
When the Volksmarine was disbanded just before the reunification of Germany, her future changed. She was sold to Malta in 1992, renamed P31, and used as a patrol boat. The vessel that had been part of a Cold War fleet ended up working in the central Mediterranean.
From patrol boat to reef
After she was decommissioned, the Maltese authorities scuttled her as a dive site in 2009. The location is off Comino, the small island between Malta and Gozo. Sinking a decommissioned ship in controlled conditions gives divers a new site and gives marine life a new surface, so the wreck has gradually been colonised by growth and fish.
For divers who like history, the P31 has the best of both. The structure is that of a naval vessel, with a long hull, a low superstructure and the fittings of a ship designed for mine clearance. The story of her origin adds context to what you see.
What a dive is like
Boat dives on Comino start with a ride across waters that are often vivid blue. The water around the island is clear, and the wreck is easy to see when you drop onto it. You can swim along the length of the ship, look at the bridge and the deck, and watch the fish that have made the hull their shelter.
As with any wreck, penetration needs training and a plan. The decks and open areas provide enough to look at for a typical dive, and a guide will advise on what is safe. Keep clear of loose items and corroded sections, and take care with the line you follow.
Marine growth changes with the seasons. Spring often brings a flush of life on the steel, and fish gather around the structure throughout the year.
Comino as a setting
Comino is known to most visitors for the Blue Lagoon, a patch of pale turquoise water that is crowded in summer. Divers experience the island quite differently. Underwater, the coast shows cliffs, caves and rocky reefs, and boat traffic above water is the main issue.
The island is small, car-free and largely uninhabited. Walking it takes little time, and there is a small tower and a few paths. Divers who add a day on Comino can walk to the tower or relax by the water after a morning dive.
A morning dive is wise in the high season. Boat traffic builds through the day, and the best light is early.
Planning
Book with a licensed dive centre that runs trips to Comino. Ask how long the boat ride takes, what depth the plan reaches and whether a second dive is included. Check that the centre provides surface markers, and bring your certification card and logbook.
Water temperature varies by season, so choose a suit to suit the time of year. Even in summer, the temperature at depth can feel cool after a long dive. A warm layer helps on the boat.
Weather decides many dives around Comino, since the channel between Malta and Gozo can be rough in strong winds. If a trip is cancelled, ask about an alternative day. Flexible schedules suit wreck divers.
Where it fits in a trip
The P31 sits at the centre of a group of dive sites that cover most of what the islands offer: wrecks near Cirkewwa such as Rozi and P29, caverns and arches on Gozo such as Coral Cave and Double Arch Reef, and larger ships such as Um El Faroud on the south-west coast.
A week in Malta can take in all of them. Many divers start with an easy shore dive, then build to boat wrecks and deeper dives as the days go by.
On a non-diving day, take the ferry to Comino or walk the cliffs at Mellieha. Either way, the water you saw from beneath is worth seeing from above.
When you plan, remember to leave 18 to 24 hours between your last dive and any flight, as recommended by diving agencies.
