A wreck with a shallow top
The P29 is a patrol boat that was sunk to become a dive site, and its appeal lies in how flexible it is. The wreck lies at a depth of around 35 metres, which sounds demanding, but the highest point is only 12 metres from the surface. The entire dive may be done at 25 metres, so divers can choose a profile that suits their experience.
That flexibility is rare among wrecks, and it explains why the site draws a mixed crowd. A diver with an advanced certification can explore the full height of the vessel, while someone with less experience can stay near the top and still get a good look.
Where it sits
The P29 lies off Cirkewwa, at the northern tip of Malta, close to the terminal for the Gozo ferry. It is one of two wrecks at Cirkewwa. The other is the tugboat Rozi, which has a longer history as a dive site and a more famous name.
Dive centres often plan both on one trip. The usual order is deeper first, then shallower, with a surface interval of at least an hour in between. If you are keen on wrecks, this pairing offers two very different vessels within a short distance of each other.
Under the surface
The structure is that of a naval patrol boat: a long, narrow hull with a superstructure and gear fixed on the deck. From the top, you work your way down, following the line of the ship and watching how the light changes with depth.
Fish gather around the wreck for shelter, and the steel is covered in marine growth that changes in colour from top to bottom. The upper part, closest to the light, shows the brightest growth. Lower down, shapes become sharper and colours fade to blue.
Penetration of any wreck needs training, a torch and a plan. Many divers prefer to keep outside and enjoy the shape of the vessel. If you do enter, keep close to the guide, avoid touching the walls and leave fixtures in place.
Choosing your depth
The choice of profile is the most important decision of the day. Staying near the top gives long bottom times and low gas consumption. Going to 25 metres brings more of the ship into view but shortens the time you can stay. The full depth of around 35 metres is for divers with the right training and a clear head about decompression.
Your guide will agree a plan before you enter the water. Keep to it, and tell the guide if you feel uncomfortable at any stage. A calm ascent with a safety stop is better than a quick correction.
Nitrox is available at many dive centres on Malta and extends no-decompression time at moderate depths. Ask about it when you book if you want to make the most of the top of the wreck.
Seasons and conditions
Water at Cirkewwa is warm in late summer and cooler between December and April. Visibility is normally good, though it can vary after storms. Summer weekends are busy, with plenty of boats and divers, so a weekday morning gives a calmer experience.
The sea off the northern tip can be exposed, so check the forecast and follow the operator’s lead. If conditions are poor, the centre may move the dive to a sheltered site, which is a sensible decision and not an inconvenience.
Before you descend
Brief your buddy on the plan, including the maximum depth, turn pressure and what to do if you separate. On a wreck with a shallow top it is tempting to wander, but the benefit of a clear plan is that everyone ascends together with gas to spare.
Beyond the dive
Cirkewwa is a working port as well as a dive area, so facilities are limited to what the ferry terminal and a few kiosks offer. Plan food before or after the dive. Mellieha, a short drive away, has restaurants and a long bay with a sandy beach, and Ghadira Nature Reserve lies behind it for a quiet walk after a morning in the water.
For a longer stay, combine the P29 with other wrecks around the islands. The Imperial Eagle, the P31 off Comino and the Um El Faroud on the south-west coast give a full week of variety.
Whichever you choose, confirm the plan with the operator the evening before, pack your gear early, and allow time for the ferry traffic on the road to the point.
