Rabat’s centre is crowded with cafes, and the church stands in the middle of it, pale and broad, with three doorways facing the street. Most people look at it quickly and go in; the more interesting part is under the floor.
A saint’s three months
The history of the church is tied to St Paul the Apostle, the patron of Malta. It is believed that during his three-month stay on the islands he lived in the local underground catacombs, and this makes the site especially revered by Maltese Christians. Churches were built here before the fourteenth century.
The foundation of the present church was laid in 1653. The noblewoman Guzmana Navarra, a devotee of the Apostle, funded the construction. The building was first designed by the Italian architect Francesco Buonamici, but when he left the island ten years later the project passed to the local architect and sculptor Lorenzo Gafa. Under his direction it was completed in 1683.
Why the façade has three doors
The design with three portals came from a practical idea: to combine several spaces behind one façade. The new church had to give access to the ancient sanctuary and cemetery, and to include the smaller church of St Publius, the Roman governor of Malta and one of the first inhabitants to adopt Christianity.
That explains why the church feels less like a single room than a collection of connected places. Stand in front and read the three doors as three destinations rather than decoration.
The grotto
From the church, visitors can go down to the Grotto of St Paul. Inside stands a famous marble statue of the Apostle, presented by Grand Master Pinto in the middle of the eighteenth century. The space is cool, quiet and dim, a sharp contrast with the bright street above.
Arrangements for entry may vary with services and with the state of the site, so check on arrival. A small amount of patience is usually enough; people move through steadily and the atmosphere is reverent.
Inside the church
The interior is decorated with frescoes showing different events from St Paul’s life. One of the most famous works is the altarpiece by Stefano Erardi, which represents the shipwreck of St Paul. Stucco moulding, gilding and carving complete the Baroque effect.
Look up as well as around. The painted surfaces and the carved details reward a slow look, and the quality of the work is a good introduction to the Baroque tradition that dominates the islands’ churches.
The wider site
Close to the church, an entrance leads to St Paul’s Catacombs, and the St Agatha and St Cataldus catacombs are also in the neighbourhood. The Wignacourt Museum adds another layer of the area’s history. Together they make Rabat one of the most rewarding places for a half-day of religious and archaeological sights.
Mdina, the old walled city, lies a few minutes away on foot, and the two are usually visited together. After sightseeing, there is a green square opposite the church where you can rest in some shade.
Reading the church
Stand in the square and count the doors again. The central portal leads to the main church, and the side portals lead toward the older spaces that the architects had to respect. The building grows from the ground up, and the layout of the façade is the plan of the site in miniature.
Inside, notice how the Baroque decoration is concentrated around the altarpiece. The shipwreck scene by Stefano Erardi is the visual centre of the church, and the frescoes along the walls lead the eye toward it, telling the story in stages as you walk.
Rabat around the church
The church stands in the centre of a town that has grown around the sites of the Apostle’s story. Streets lead out from the square towards the catacombs and the walls of Mdina, and the older buildings along them often hold small shops, bakeries and cafes. Rabat is known for its pastries, so a stop for a local snack suits the pace of the visit.
Because the square is shared by walkers, buses and market stalls on busy days, the best moments are early in the morning, when the church is quiet and the light falls straight onto the façade.
Practical points
Dress modestly for the church and the grotto: shoulders and knees covered. Services take priority over visits.
The cafes around the square are the natural place for a break, and you can plan the day so that you visit the church in the morning, the catacombs at midday, when the underground temperature is a relief, and Mdina in the late afternoon. Wear comfortable shoes for the steps down to the grotto and for the cobbled streets nearby.
