Church bells carry across Balluta Bay, and the building behind them is tall and narrow, with a pointed outline that stands out from the apartment blocks on either side. At sunset the façade turns a warm gold, and the bay below fills with swimmers and walkers.
A landmark on the waterfront
The Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel overlooks the waterfront of Sliema and stands out from the row of buildings around it for its size and its design. It is neo-Gothic, a style unusual on an island where most churches are Baroque, and it has become a recognisable feature of Balluta Bay.
It sits on the border of St Julian’s and Sliema, in one of the busiest holiday areas on the island. The area is popular with visitors, yet the church keeps a calm presence above the promenade.
A modern church with an old dedication
Compared with the best-known sights in Malta, the church is a fairly recent construction. The first church dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel on this spot was built as long ago as 1859, by Carmelites from Valletta. The Carmelites were followers of the Catholic religious order that originated with pilgrims or crusaders in the twelfth century.
The building was rebuilt twice, in 1877 and in 1900. A third rebuilding became necessary after the Second World War, when the church was almost completely ruined by air raids. It was rebuilt again in 1958 and took on its present appearance. In 1974 it became the parish church of Balluta Bay, under the care of Carmelite friars.
What to see
From outside, the interest lies in the vertical lines of the façade, the pointed arches and the way the building rises over the road. Stand on the promenade, or on the beach at Balluta Bay, and look up. The church is especially beautiful in the evening, when it is lit.
Inside, the church is open to the public. You may see Catholic rituals, a concert of religious music or a celebration. The interior is calm and cool, a useful break from the sun on the promenade.
Weddings are held here too, and from the beach or the promenade you can watch the arrivals and the ceremonies from a respectful distance. They are a regular part of Maltese life and add to the atmosphere of the bay.
The July feast
The most famous of the parish feasts is the Feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, held in July. Streets around the bay are decorated, bands play and the neighbourhood fills with people. If your trip falls in July, the feast is a good opportunity to see Maltese parish life; it can also mean noise, crowds and diverted traffic, so plan your movements around it.
Around Balluta Bay
Balluta Bay itself has a small beach and a promenade lined with cafes. The Cat Statue and the De Redin Towers are listed among the places nearby, and a walk along the seafront connects Sliema with St Julian’s. The area is easy to explore on foot.
For an evening, combine the church with a stroll along the promenade and a meal at one of the restaurants overlooking the water. In summer the bay stays busy until late.
Seeing it from the water’s edge
The best viewpoint is not at the door. Walk to the far side of Balluta Bay and look back: the church rises behind the colourful apartment blocks, and its tower anchors the whole curve of the waterfront. At that distance you can see why it counts as a landmark for both Sliema and St Julian’s.
Early evening brings local swimmers off the rocks and dog walkers onto the promenade, and the church bells often sound across the bay. It is one of the pleasant everyday rhythms of the waterfront, and you do not need to go inside to enjoy it.
Practical points
Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered for entering the church. If a service is going on, wait outside or come back later, as visitors are expected to be quiet.
Buses run along the seafront road, so the church is easy to reach without a car, though parking in the area is difficult in summer. Morning is the quiet time for a visit, and early evening is the best for photographs. Plan to arrive before sunset and watch the lights come on across the bay.
