The bay is small enough to take in with one look. A curve of stones and pale concrete steps, a handful of swimmers in clear water, and behind them a row of buildings that climbs the hill in tiers. This is Balluta, the quieter corner of the Sliema and St Julian’s waterfront.
What the beach is like
Balluta Bay is a town beach rather than a resort. The shore is covered with small stones and pebbles, with sand under the surface in places. The shingle is flat enough to lie on, and a few concrete steps and platforms make getting in simple. The water is clear and warm in summer, and the bay is sheltered, which suits casual swimming.
There is not much space. In July and August the shore can be crowded at midday, and people spread out onto the promenade steps. Early morning and the hour before sunset are quieter and more pleasant.
Swimming, snorkelling and diving
The water is clean enough to see the bottom in the shallows. Snorkelling is pleasant on calm days, and divers also use the area for entry. Keep close to the shore, because boats move in the bay, and wear a bright cap or a float if you swim far. Water shoes make the entry easier, since the stones can be sharp underfoot.
In winter the water is cold but swimmable for regular sea swimmers. A few locals swim through the year, and the bay stays usable on calm days. Rough seas make the entry unsafe.
The promenade
The promenade is the main reason to come. It links Balluta to St Julian’s and Sliema along the water, and locals use it for evening strolls, jogging and dog walks. Benches face the bay, and cafés and small restaurants line the way. It is easy to combine a swim with a coffee or a meal.
Behind the shore stands a notable building: the Balluta Buildings, an Art Nouveau apartment block from the 1920s, with curved balconies and ornate ironwork. It is one of the best-known examples of the style on the islands and a pleasure to look at from the promenade. The neo-Gothic Carmelite church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel also overlooks the bay, with its tall spire visible from the water.
A few things to look for
A statue of a cat is among the quirky sights near the bay, a local landmark that tends to catch the attention of passers-by. Elsewhere along the promenade you will find benches, small gardens and viewpoints across the water towards Sliema.
Evening is the best time for the view. As the sun drops, light falls on the buildings across the bay, and the colours turn warm. If you are staying nearby, this is a very easy way to end the day.
Timing
The bay changes character through the day. In the morning it belongs to swimmers and joggers, around midday to sunbathers, and in the evening to walkers and diners. Weekends fill up faster than weekdays, and on a hot Sunday the steps are packed. If you want room to swim, go on a weekday before ten or after five. Spring and early autumn give the warmest mix of comfortable air and sea, with fewer people than high summer.
Practical notes
Bring a towel, water shoes and sun cream. There is little shade on the shore, though the promenade has some from the buildings. Facilities in the bay are limited, so you rely on the cafés for food, drink and toilets. Bring small change and be prepared to make a purchase if you use a café’s facilities.
The bay is not a place for ball games or large groups, and it suits couples, solo swimmers and families with older children. Very young children should be supervised closely because of the stony entry and the nearby road.
Combining it with the area
Sliema Beach and the long Sliema promenade lie to the south and make a pleasant extended walk. St Julian’s, with Spinola Bay and the nightlife district of Paceville, is a few minutes to the north. The ferry to Valletta leaves from Sliema, and it is an easy crossing for a day in the capital.
A good plan is to swim in the late afternoon, walk the promenade as the light fades, and eat in one of the cafés on the front. If you are on a short stay, it is the easiest way to feel the rhythm of the area without leaving the town.
