In Sliema, a swim often starts with stepping over a low wall. Beyond the pavement of Tower Road a wide band of flat, pale sandstone runs down to the sea, and in summer it fills with towels, bags and people lowering themselves into the water by handrail. This is the town’s version of a beach: not sand, but rock, and a popular one.
What the beach actually is
On Tower Road a broad expanse of large, smooth sandstone slabs borders the sea. During the warm months it becomes a summer beach, with metal handrails fixed along the edge so that bathers can reach the water safely. The surface is flat enough for a towel and an umbrella, and the sea is clear off the rocks.
Visitors who arrive expecting golden sand will be surprised. Sliema is a dense urban peninsula, and the rocky shore is the closest thing the town has to a shoreline. That fact shapes everything about the visit: you walk from a cafe or a bus stop, swim for an hour, and return to the street without driving to a remote cove.
Swimming from the slabs
Entry is by ladder or handrail, and the technique is simple: sit on the edge, lower yourself in, and climb out by the same route. The water is deep close to the edge, which suits confident swimmers and makes the spot less suitable for toddlers. Stone that has been wet becomes slippery, so shoes with a grip are useful for the walk to the water, and a pair of water shoes is easy to keep in a bag.
There is no shade on the slabs themselves. A hat, sun cream and an umbrella matter at midday, and a bottle of water is wise. Many regulars come in the early morning, before the stone gets hot, or at the end of the day, when the sun is lower and the light on the harbour is soft.
The lidos
Alternative swimming and sunbathing is offered by a number of seafront lidos, both on Tower Road and on the point of the peninsula. They differ in style and price, but they all provide something the open rock does not: a built platform, sunbeds, and often a more sheltered entry to the water. If you plan to stay for several hours, a lido gives you a base with chairs and shade.
Hours, access and rules vary by operator and by season, so ask at the lido you choose rather than relying on a general idea. In low season, many close or reduce service, and the open rocks are then the only way into the sea.
Walking the seafront
The beach is a stretch of a longer seafront promenade, and many visitors combine a swim with a walk. The De Redin Towers, the coastal watchtowers built in the seventeenth century, are part of the story of this stretch of coast, and the cat statue is a landmark that people look for along the way. Across the water the domes and bastions of Valletta fill the horizon, which gives the front a view that changes with the time of day.
Cafes, ice-cream stands and restaurants run along Tower Road and the surrounding streets, so there is rarely any need to carry food. After a swim, a short walk brings you to Sliema’s shopping streets.
When to go
July and August bring the most people to the slabs, and the best time in those months is early or late. In May, June and October the sea is warm enough for many people and the rocks are far less crowded. In winter the front is a place for walking, with swimmers appearing only on warm, calm days.
The nearest ferry landing is a short walk away, and a morning swim in Sliema pairs well with an afternoon crossing to Valletta. For a longer day, continue on foot along the promenade toward St Julian’s and the bays of Spinola and St George’s.
Practical points before you go
Pack light. A towel, a bottle of water, sun cream and a pair of shoes with grip cover most of what you need, and a plastic bag for wet things saves a mess on the bus. There are no changing rooms on the open rock, so wear your swimming kit under your clothes, or use a lido, which usually has basic facilities.
Rubbish and loose belongings are the usual headaches on a crowded seafront. Keep valuables to a minimum, and do not leave bags unattended while you swim. On windy days, waves can slap over the lower slabs, so choose a higher spot and keep a hand on your towel.
