You see it long before you reach it: a tall dark cross on the skyline above Siġġiewi, standing on a hill like a signpost for the whole south-west of the island. The Laferla Cross rewards the walk with a wide view across hills, fields and villages.
A cross of iron on a hill
The landmark is an iron cross about 16 metres high on a huge limestone pedestal, inside which a small shrine is hidden. It crowns Għolja tas-Salib, the Hill of the Cross, near Siġġiewi, at a height of around 200 metres. That puts it among the highest viewpoints in Malta, so visitors can look out over the picturesque hills and the village below.
The combination of religious symbolism and landscape is the main attraction. The cross is not only an object; it also gives the hill a purpose, and the path to the top is as important as the summit itself.
The history of the cross
The first structure dates to 1904. Ġanni Mercieca of Naxxar built it on the initiative of Reverend Pawl Laferla, who proposed the cross to mark the Holy Year, and the monument was later named after the man behind the idea. The Archbishop blessed it in 1904, and services have been held there every year since.
The local winds were hard on the structure. Sixty years after it was built, the cross was replaced with an exact replica made by Italian craftsmen. During the following twenty-one years local craftsmen carried out restoration work on it. Since 2014 the Maltese authorities have been carrying out a landscaping programme around the site.
The ascent
The path up is long, and the final part is steep. That is intentional: the route is a Way of the Cross, designed to echo the road to Calvary, and statues of Our Lady of Sorrows and Jesus stand along the pathway. Even for a visitor who is not religious, these stations give the climb a rhythm. You stop, look at a figure, catch your breath, and go on.
There is almost no shade, so a hat and water matter. Wear shoes with good grip, since parts of the surface are stony. Walkers who prefer a gentler pace can take their time and use the stations as natural rest points.
Views and light
From the top the land falls away in every direction. Hills and terraced fields roll toward the village, and on a clear day the horizon opens wide. The best views come in the early morning and in the hour before sunset, when the light is low and the colours deepen. Midday haze can flatten the view in summer.
Photographers often shoot back along the path as well as outward, because the winding track and the small statues make a good foreground.
Easter observances
The place has a strong tradition in the Maltese Catholic calendar. On Maundy Thursday and Good Friday it is a traditional place of pilgrimage, and hundreds of lights are lit on the cross and along the pathway, which creates a memorable sight from a distance and from the path itself. If you plan to visit in Holy Week, expect crowds and a devotional atmosphere, and keep to the edges if you are not taking part.
The small shrine in the pedestal is often closed at ordinary times, but a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Annunciation stands on the hill nearby and is another quiet place to pause.
What to bring
Water comes first, and more than you think. Add a hat, sun protection and sturdy shoes. In spring the hillside is greener and the walk is cooler, while in July and August the climb is hard under a strong sun. A light jacket helps in winter, when the wind at the summit is sharper than in the village below.
A small camera or phone is enough for the views, but a pair of binoculars can be useful on a clear day to pick out villages on the horizon. If you are walking with a group, agree a meeting point at the foot of the hill, since the path can spread people out.
The village below
Siġġiewi is a historic village with a large parish church and narrow streets, and it makes a good start or finish for the walk. Parking near the foot of the hill is possible but limited around Holy Week, when pilgrims fill every space. On those days it is wiser to arrive early or use public transport.
The hillside also holds small fields, stone walls and a few wild plants, so the walk is varied even for someone who is not drawn to the religious side of the place. Take the descent slowly, because loose stones can slip underfoot.
Combining the walk
The hill sits near other sights in the south-west. Clapham Junction, the field of cart ruts, is close by, and the Annunciation Chapel and the Madonna tal-Girgenti church can be added on the same outing. Siġġiewi itself has a large parish church and cafés for a drink afterwards.
For a comfortable visit, plan the ascent for early morning or late afternoon, bring more water than seems necessary, and allow half an hour at the top before heading down.
