A wood on a rocky island
Malta is not known for forests, and most visitors arrive expecting dry stone and sun. Buskett changes that expectation within minutes. A path leads under the branches of oaks, carobs, white poplars, ashes, elms and Aleppo pines, and the light turns green. The air is cooler, the sound is birdsong, and the smell is of resin and fruit.
The gardens are the only semi-natural forestland on the island, covering 47 hectares in a valley near Siggiewi. They are known locally as the lungs of Malta, a nickname that makes sense after you have walked in from the baked fields outside.
Planted by the Knights
The Knights Hospitaller, the Order of Saint John, planted the gardens in the mid-1500s. They used the area first as a hunting ground, and the name Buskett comes from the Italian boschetto, meaning a small wood. Later, Verdala Palace was added on the hill above, and it became a summer residence of the Grand Master.
In 2000, Buskett was included in the sites falling under Special Area of Conservation and Special Protected Area acts. The government protects it as an ecological site for saving rare and endemic flora and fauna, which explains why the woodland feels managed but not manicured.
Citrus, vines and olives
Part of the valley is given over to citrus plantations. In the harvest time, visitors can walk in the shade of orange and lemon groves and pick fruit right off the trees. Alongside the citrus run vineyards and olive trees, with pathways winding through the landscaped areas.
You are also allowed to walk and picnic in the terraced fields or under the large trees, rather than just along set paths. That gives the place a relaxed feel, closer to a country park than to a formal garden.
Walking to Verdala Palace
From autumn to spring the gardens are at their best. Wild flowers appear, the local garigue greens up, and natural springs flow. A long walk through the gardens leads towards Verdala Palace, which crowns the hill. The palace is not generally open as a museum, so treat it as a landmark and a destination for the view.
Wear comfortable shoes, since the ground is uneven and can be damp after rain. A paper map or an offline map helps if you want to avoid doubling back.
Wildlife
The gardens are home to many birds, including ones that stop here during their seasonal migration. Early morning is the time to see and hear them. In the waterways you may spot the painted frog, famous for being the only endemic subspecies of amphibian in the Maltese islands.
With a bit of luck, visitors can watch Algerian hedgehogs and chameleons in their natural habitat. Move slowly, stay on the paths where signs ask and keep dogs under control, as the animals are shy.
The feast of Peter and Paul
On 29 June, the gardens traditionally attract hundreds of locals and tourists for the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul, known locally as L-Imnarja. The night before the feast, people picnic with traditional dishes to the accompaniment of folk music. In the morning an annual agricultural show is held.
If you are on the island at the end of June, it is one of the best chances to see a Maltese tradition outside the tourist circuit. Expect crowds and noise, arrive early and take water. If you prefer peace, choose another day.
Choosing the season
The gardens change with the year. Autumn to spring brings flowers, springs and green slopes, citrus fruit hangs on the trees in the cooler months, and summer is quieter in colour but valued for shade. A winter visit after rain gives the freshest air and the richest smell of the woodland, though paths can be muddy and a pair of closed shoes is wise.
Combining it with the south-west
Buskett sits close to other places worth a stop. The Clapham Junction cart ruts are a short drive away, and the Dingli Cliffs offer a long view over the sea. Rabat and Mdina lie a short drive north, and a day could link woodland, cliffs and a historic city.
The gardens also make a good stop for families looking for shade in the middle of the day. Bring a picnic, a rug and water, and expect to spend two to three hours. In summer, go in the morning or late afternoon, and leave the car in the shade.
End the day with an early dinner in Rabat or Siggiewi, or bring a cold drink to the top of the cliffs for sunset.
