Look down from the cliff top above Żebbuġ and the first thing that registers is how thin the water looks. Wied il-Għasri is a crack in the north coast of Gozo, a valley that ends abruptly in the sea, with steep rock walls on both sides and a strip of turquoise at the bottom. From above it appears barely wider than a street. That narrowness is the reason people come, and the reason some decide to stay on the top.
The way down
A staircase cut straight into the rock leads from the head of the valley to the water. The steps are uneven and, after rain or spray, slick, so the descent asks for proper shoes rather than flip-flops. At the bottom lies a tiny shingle beach, more a landing of stones than a stretch of sand. A handful of towels fills it. Entry into the sea is over pebbles and flat rock, and the water deepens quickly, which makes it comfortable for confident swimmers and a poor choice for anyone who needs a gradual shelf.
The enclosed shape does something useful on a calm day: the swell is blocked by the walls, and the inlet stays still and clear long after more open bays have picked up a chop. On a day with a strong northerly wind the same shape turns against you, because the waves funnel in and break against the rocks. Check the forecast before committing to the walk.
Under the surface
Wied il-Għasri is popular with divers who like to explore the underwater caves around the mouth of the inlet. Snorkellers can see some of that from the surface in good conditions, staying near the walls where the light reaches the rock. The cave-and-ledge scenery is the draw, not big fish, so expect a quiet and rather rocky kind of underwater world. Anyone who wants to dive properly should book with a dive centre on Gozo that knows the site, because entry and exit over the stairs take planning and the conditions change with the wind.
The cave with the shaft
Where the valley meets the sea there is an interesting cave with a shaft dug right up through the rock to the top of the steep cliffs above. It once held a rig of ropes and buckets that raised seawater to the neighbouring salt pans. It is a good reminder that this coast was worked, not just looked at, and the pans themselves are still visible along the shore nearby. The best-known pans on Gozo lie along the coast at Żebbuġ, a short drive away.
The walk
The valley also works as a country walk or a bike ride, especially in winter and spring when the fields are green and the air is cool. The approach is a lane across farmland, with stone walls, carob and prickly pear along the way. Bring a hat even in spring, since there is almost no shade between the road and the cliff edge. Walking down and swimming and then climbing back is a half-day outing if you add time to sit on the rocks, and it is the sort of place where an hour disappears without anything much happening.
Practicalities
There is no café at the bottom and no hire of loungers or umbrellas, so water, snacks and sun protection come from your bag. A small day pack is easier on the stairs than a beach bag, and a pair of water shoes makes the shingle bearable. Parking near the top is limited, which is another reason to arrive early in summer.
The stairs make the beach unsuitable for pushchairs, wheelchairs or anyone who struggles with uneven steps. The cliff-top views are still worth the short walk from the car for those who prefer not to descend.
Combining the visit
Wied il-Għasri sits close to several other north-coast stops. The Ta’ Pinu Basilica is a short drive inland, and the Giordan Lighthouse stands on the headland nearby. The salt pans lie along the same coast. A sensible day runs from a morning swim at the inlet, to the pans and a late lunch in Marsalforn, with the lighthouse or the basilica kept for the softer light of late afternoon.
For a quieter visit, go outside July and August, and on a weekday. Come before ten or after five in high summer and the inlet is yours for an hour. Go on a day when the wind is from the south and the bottom of the valley is at its calmest.
