Two arches in one headland
From the surface the Double Arch Reef looks like an ordinary piece of Gozo coast: an extended rocky headland, pale and low. The name comes from what is underneath. Two large archways have been carved into the rock, one directly below the other, and together they make one of the more dramatic structures on the island.
The upper, smaller arch starts at 20 metres (66 feet). The larger one lies beneath it and stretches down to the seabed, 45 metres (150 feet) below the surface. Those numbers are why divers plan carefully for this site, and why the right gas mix and training are not optional.
Getting into the water
The entry is a surprise to people who expect a clean drop. It is over very shallow water, and that water is dotted with hundreds of sea urchins. A careful walk, sturdy dive boots and steady balance matter more than speed. A guide who knows the site will point out the safest line, and it is wise to follow it exactly.
Once you are floating, the problem eases. You pass over large areas of seagrass, a habitat that is easy to overlook but often the most productive part of the dive. Cuttlefish hover over the grass, octopus hide in the stones at its edge, and wrasse are numerous. Slow finning and a horizontal body position keep the seagrass intact and give you more time with the animals.
Following the wall
At around 14 metres you reach the start of the wall. Keep it on your right and follow it round, staying with your guide. The route turns gradually along the headland until you meet the double arch.
Use the time on the wall to monitor depth, gas and your buddy. At this depth the clock moves fast, and the arches deserve more time than the walk-in. Look into the smaller arch, then down toward the larger arch below, and take stock of how far down the sea floor lies. Most divers choose not to go to the bottom and stay at the level the group has planned.
Fish life around the headland is described locally as prolific. That fits the experience: shoals move in front of the wall, solitary fish hold in the cracks, and the water is clear enough to see across the full width of the arch.
Gas, time and conditions
Gozo diving is generous with clear water but conditions at exposed headlands change quickly. A shore dive with a long surface swim can turn tiring in a swell, so tell the guide if you are uncomfortable. Dive centres on Gozo will check the weather and may pick an alternative site rather than risk a hard exit.
Depth limits come from your certification and the plan agreed with the guide. Nitrox may be available for longer no-decompression time, though it comes with its own depth restrictions. If you are unsure, ask for a briefing in plain terms and do not feel pressure to go deeper than you want.
Cold-season dives need a thicker suit, and a hood is common. Summer water is far warmer, but the site is deeper, so the lower layers can still be cool.
Where it fits in a Gozo trip
Double Arch Reef is a good second or third dive of a Gozo stay, once you have settled your weighting and checked your gear on easier sites. The island has several similar structures within a short distance, among them the cavern at Coral Cave and the lagoon tunnel at the Inland Sea.
For a varied weekend, alternate a deep wall day with a shallow and sheltered day, and leave time on land. Gozo’s towns, the citadel in Victoria and the harbour at Mgarr are worth a late afternoon.
Practical points
Bring your certification card, logbook and any specialty cards that cover depth. Rent or bring a torch to look into the arch, and carry a surface marker buoy as your guide requires. Ask about the exit route before the entry and agree a turn pressure with your buddy.
Plan half a day, with a buffer for the surface interval and the walk back over the urchin-dotted shallows. Check prices and times with the operator, since they vary with season.
Afterwards, eat early and drink water. Dives to this depth leave most people more tired than they expect.
