Most of Mdina’s palaces can only be admired from the street. Palazzo Falson opens its doors, and what lies behind them is a private house arranged as its last owner left it, with objects chosen for pleasure rather than display.
A very old house
Parts of the palace are believed to date from the early 13th century, which would make it one of the oldest buildings in Mdina. It was changed in the late 15th century and again in the mid 16th century, and at about that time became the residence of the de Falsone family, from whom it takes its name.
The family were respected residents of Mdina and hosted the Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller when Malta was handed to the Order. By the late 16th century, however, the palace was confiscated on the order of the Inquisition and passed to another noble family, so for a while it was known as Palazzo Cumbo-Navarra.
The collector
The best-known owner was Olof Frederick Gollcher, an officer of the Order of the British Empire. He was a scientist, an artist and a philanthropist, and above all a passionate collector driven by the wish to preserve Malta’s cultural heritage. He renovated the building and filled it with his books, armour and art.
After his death the house and collection went to a foundation established by his will. The foundation agreed with Heritage Malta to arrange a museum, which opened in 2007.
Inside the collections
The museum holds 45 collections. Among them are more than 4,500 books and manuscripts, around 800 items of silverware, 80 oriental rugs and 200 paintings and prints, including works associated with Anthony van Dyck and Nicolas Poussin. There is also an impressive group of antique weapons.
Some smaller collections are more unusual, such as whistles, smoking pipes and scent bottles, which are shown from time to time. They give a personal touch, since they show a collector’s curiosity rather than a curator’s plan.
The house itself
The rooms keep much of their original character, with distinctive architectural and decorative details, furniture and household items. It feels like a Maltese town house, not a gallery. There is a picturesque courtyard with a carved fountain, and a shaded gallery with flowers and plants, a calm place to rest before going on.
The palace’s mix of medieval structure and later changes is part of the story, and you can see how the house was adapted over the centuries.
The roof terrace
On top of the palace is a small cafe with views over the island and towards St Paul’s Cathedral. Mdina’s roofline is low, so the terrace gives a good look across the rooftops and bell towers. A coffee here after the museum is a natural end to the visit.
Why a private collection matters
Museums built from a single person’s collection reveal their owner’s mind, and Palazzo Falson is no exception. Gollcher bought what he liked, from rugs to rare books, and the rooms show a taste that ranged widely. The silver and the weapons sit near books and paintings, so there is no strict division into departments.
That makes the visit slower and more personal than a standard gallery. Pick one case, such as the books or the silver, and look at it properly rather than racing through all 45 collections.
Planning
Allow between one and two hours. The collections reward slow reading, particularly the books and the silver. The museum is closed on Mondays and on a few public holidays, so confirm the day before travelling. Very young children are not admitted, and children aged six to twelve come free when accompanied.
Mdina is small, and most of its other sights are within a few minutes. St Paul’s Cathedral and the National Museum of Natural History are the nearest, and Rabat, outside the walls, has the Domvs Romana and the catacombs. A morning at Palazzo Falson followed by lunch in Rabat and an afternoon in the catacombs makes a rounded day.
Visit earlier in the day, when light falls well on the courtyard and Mdina is still quiet. Wear comfortable shoes, since the pavement is uneven, and keep a layer in case the stone rooms feel cool.
