The shortest route between Sliema and Valletta is across the water. By road, the journey winds round the head of Marsamxett Harbour through Msida and Floriana, and in rush hour it crawls. By boat, it is a short hop with the skyline growing larger the whole way. The Valletta Sliema ferry is a commuter service, a tourist ride and a good half hour of views in one.
How the Sliema crossing works
Valletta Ferry Services runs small passenger boats across Marsamxett Harbour between the Sliema ferry quay and a landing below the walls of Valletta. Sliema is the busiest of the two ends, since it is the main hotel area and the place most visitors stay. The crossing takes only minutes, and the boat is usually full of day-trippers with cameras on the Valletta side and locals with shopping bags on the way back.
Boats are small and open to the weather. Hold on when the boat leaves the quay, especially in a breeze. Both ends have a ticket arrangement set by the operator, and buying details change over time, so check the operator’s site for the current system, fares and timetable.
The Valletta landing
The Valletta quay lies on the Marsamxett side, below the bastions. From the landing, walk up through the lanes into the city. The climb is steady and in places steep, with steps, and the stone can be slippery. On a hot day, it takes some effort, so allow time and do not rush. For a first visit, Valletta rewards a slow wander.
Coming back, the same lane leads down to the quay, and the view of Sliema’s lit-up waterfront at dusk is one of the more pleasant moments of an evening in Malta. Check the last sailing of the day before you stay late, because the ferry does not run all night.
The Three Cities ferry
The second route crosses the Grand Harbour from Valletta to the Three Cities. The landing at the Valletta end sits at the foot of the bastions below the Upper Barrakka Gardens, and the Upper Barrakka Lift connects the two levels. The lift saves the stairs and the steep slope, and it deposits you beside Upper Barrakka Gardens, the best viewpoint over the harbour.
On the far side, the ferry lands on the Three Cities shore, close to the historic waterfront of Birgu and Cospicua. The Three Cities are one of the most interesting corners of the island, with narrow streets and the fortifications of Fort Saint Angelo. The ferry gives a striking view of the harbour, with the bastions of Senglea and the walls of Birgu in front. Landing points on that side can be adjusted by the operator, so confirm which quay the boat uses on the day.
Why the ferry beats the bus
Buses to Valletta are frequent but slow at busy times. They stop at the terminus beside City Gate, which is a walk from the harbour. Taxis are expensive for such a short ride and still get stuck in traffic. The ferry avoids all that. It also saves effort for those staying in Sliema, since the quay is on the promenade and there is no need to find a bus stop.
There are reasons to choose the bus. In bad weather the small boats can be cancelled, and late in the evening the ferry stops sailing. The bus covers a wider area, including places that are not on the water. A flexible traveller will use both, taking the boat in the morning and the bus home if the evening is late.
Planning a day
A simple plan: take an early ferry from Sliema, reach Valletta before the crowds, and walk through the Upper Barrakka Gardens and take a look at the Saluting Battery. Cross to the Three Cities in the afternoon for the quieter streets, then return to Valletta or Sliema as the light drops. Each crossing is short, so the boat becomes part of the sightseeing and not a cost in time.
Practical points
- Check the timetable and the last departure with Valletta Ferry Services on the day.
- Carry small change or a card, depending on how the operator takes payment.
- Allow time for the climb at the Valletta landing in summer heat.
- Take a light layer, since the open boats are breezy even in July.
- Have the bus as a backup plan, in case a sailing is cancelled.
Between the two harbours, the ferry is the quickest way to feel the layout of the place. The roads mean little by comparison.
