The size of the thing
The first sensation on this wreck is scale. Um El Faroud was a tanker of 10,000 tons, a single screw motor vessel owned by a Libyan company, and she is much larger than the patrol boats and tugs that make up most Maltese wreck dives. Divers describe the moment she appears out of the blue as a wall of steel.
Her size gives a dive that feels different from the smaller sites. You can spend a full dive on the exterior alone, following the hull, the deck and the superstructure.
A sad start, a useful end
The ship’s history includes a tragedy. During maintenance work in 1995, a gas explosion occurred on board. That ended her working life. Later, she was scuttled off the coast of Malta as an artificial reef and diving attraction.
It is worth remembering that the explosion cost lives among the workers who were on the ship. Divers who visit the wreck do so over a place that began with a serious accident, and a quiet approach suits the site.
Turning an old vessel into a reef is a common practice, and it has become part of Maltese diving culture. The tanker was cleaned and prepared before she was sunk, and since then the structure has been colonised by growth and fish.
Where she lies
The wreck is off the south-west coast of Malta, close to Wied iz-Zurrieq, a small inlet known for its cliffs and boat trips to the Blue Grotto. The sea on this side of the island faces open water, and swell can arrive quickly.
Dive centres schedule trips here when the forecast is good. If a trip is cancelled, it is usually because of the sea state, and the centre will offer an alternative site.
What a dive involves
Most dives begin with a descent to the structure by a shot line or a drop, followed by a controlled exploration of the hull, the deck and the areas around the engine room and bridge, depending on the plan. Open sections of the wreck offer a lot to see without entering enclosed spaces.
Fish gather around the steel, and the shape of the hull makes good shelter. A torch brings out colours in the growth, and the clear water gives long sight lines along the deck.
Penetration needs training and a plan. The ship is large, with many compartments and long corridors, and it is easy to become disoriented. Enter only with the right qualification, a guide and the equipment to do it safely.
Depth, gas and planning
This is not a beginner’s wreck. Operators usually ask for advanced certification and recent experience, and they plan with careful gas management. Bottom time is limited at depth, and decompression rules apply. Nitrox and, for technical divers, trimix or rebreathers may feature, depending on what the centre offers.
Ask questions when you book: what is the maximum depth of the plan, how long is the surface interval, and what do they require in terms of experience? A good operator will answer clearly and may ask you to do an easier dive first to check your skills.
The sea state can change in a few hours, so keep the schedule flexible. Bring a warm layer for the boat, certification, logbook and your own computer if you have one.
Respect and preparation
Because of how the ship’s working life ended, many divers treat the site with a degree of reserve. Keep conversation on the boat low-key, leave nothing behind and take nothing away. Read the briefing carefully, and if you have doubts about depth or current, say so before the descent and not on the line. Experienced guides welcome those questions.
Making a day of it
The south-west coast is dramatic above water as well. Wied iz-Zurrieq is the departure point for boats to the Blue Grotto, and the cliffs nearby are among the highest on the island. Hagar Qim and Mnajdra temples lie a short distance along the coast, and a visit to the temples makes a good afternoon after a morning dive.
Remember to allow time between diving and any trip that involves altitude or flying. Standard advice is to wait before flying, and your dive centre can tell you the recommended interval.
For divers who want more wrecks, the sites at Cirkewwa and off Comino complete a week. Um El Faroud is the largest of the group, and it deserves to be dived with respect, on a calm day, within limits and with a guide who knows her.
