A ferry with a famous sister
Most people who come to Malta to dive know that the Mediterranean holds many wrecks. Fewer know that one of them is related to a ship that shaped modern marine exploration. The Imperial Eagle was a small passenger ferry, carrying about 70 passengers and 10 cars, and she made her maiden voyage in 1958. Ten years later she was taken out of service. Her claim to fame is that she was the sister ship of Calypso, the vessel Jacques Cousteau used for his ocean films and expeditions.
That connection gives the wreck a kind of quiet weight. The two ships came from the same design, so the corridors and cabins you pass through are close to those of a vessel that appeared in documentaries seen around the world.
Out to the buoy
The wreck lies offshore, and the route there is a boat ride of around 15 minutes. At the end of it you reach a buoy that marks the shot line. Divers go down the line to about 25 metres, then leave it and swim across a valley in the sea floor to reach the ship.
The valley crossing is the part that surprises people. The seabed dips between the line and the wreck, so the ship appears out of the blue gradually, first as a faint dark shape and then as a clear outline.
Like so many of the wrecks around Malta, the Imperial Eagle sits upright on the sand. An upright wreck is easier to understand, since the decks are level and the superstructure stands where it was built. It also looks excellent in photographs.
Swimming round her
The standard dive is a lap around the outside, and then, for qualified divers, a pass through the interior. The hull, rails and deck fittings give plenty to look at. Fish gather in the shelter, small invertebrates settle on the surfaces, and growth softens the lines of the steel.
Inside, the corridors lead through the ship to what was the wheelhouse. Only the wheel remains, and it is the sort of detail that stays in the logbook. Penetration should be done only with proper wreck training, a torch and a guide who knows the layout. Do not touch anything, and keep clear of loose cables and fixtures that may have corroded.
Why wreck diving suits Malta
The islands are well known for deliberately sunk wrecks, placed as artificial reefs and as attractions. Many sit on sand in water clear enough to see the whole structure, and they are close to dive centres, so a boat ride of a quarter of an hour takes you to a ship that feels remote. The Imperial Eagle is one of that group.
Other wrecks lie off Cirkewwa, off Comino and along the south-west coast, among them Rozi, P29, P31 and Um El Faroud. Each has a different size and depth, and a diver staying a week can build a programme that moves from one to another.
Planning
Book through a licensed dive centre and tell them your level and recent experience. The wreck sits at about 25 metres or deeper, so it suits divers trained to that depth, and nitrox may be offered for longer time. Check the plan for decompression limits and keep strictly to it.
Weather matters for boat dives. If the sea is rough, the operator may swap to a sheltered site, so keep the schedule flexible. Bring certification, logbook, a torch, and a warm layer for the boat, since the ride back after a dive can be chilly.
Water temperature varies by season, and most divers choose a thicker suit in winter and spring. Visibility is usually good, and calm mornings give the best light on the deck.
Making the most of the day
Plan for a half day, with a second dive on a different site if the operator offers it. Many centres combine a deeper morning wreck with a shallower afternoon reef to keep gas and nitrogen within limits.
Afterwards, eat a proper lunch and drink water. Wreck diving is tiring because of the depth and the concentration it needs, and an easy afternoon on the promenade is the right finish.
For anyone interested in the history, the story of Calypso is worth reading before the trip. Knowing what the ship’s sister did makes the wheel in the wheelhouse mean more.
