Step through Valletta City Gate and the first thing on your left is a space where a building should be. Tall stone columns stand without a roof. A broad terrace runs between them and the street. This is what remains of the Royal Opera House, and it is one of the most discussed pieces of empty space in Malta.
The building that went up in 1866
The original theatre was designed by the British architect Edward Middleton Barry and finished in 1866. It could hold nearly 1,300 people, with a lavishly decorated interior that gave it iconic status. For Valletta it marked a boost to cultural and artistic life, and for the whole island it set a standard.
The success did not last. Six years after the opening, a fire almost destroyed the interior. The theatre was reconstructed in 1877 and kept the original exterior for the most part, but the building was no longer exactly the one Barry had drawn. It carried on as a centre of Maltese cultural life and hosted many performances until the war.
1942
In 1942 German bombing almost completely destroyed the opera house. The authorities then had to take down what was left of the structure, because the half-ruined walls and falling fragments were a danger to people passing in the street. Only the terrace and some columns were kept as a reminder.
After the war the authorities planned to rebuild. First they needed to raise a large sum and choose the best design, and in the middle of the 1950s reconstruction was finally announced. Political events then got in the way. For decades the question came back, again and again, without a decision that anyone carried out.
An argument in stone
The argument is not settled even now. Some residents and visitors consider the ruins a historic landmark in their own right, because they show the scale and elegance of the lost building and add a dramatic chapter to the city’s story. Others would like a full theatre again. The result is a site that works as both memorial and venue.
Standing in front of it, you can read the argument in the stone. The columns still have the profile of a grand entrance, but there is nothing behind them except sky. The terrace is wide enough to picture the carriages that once set people down. If you have walked in through the gate, you have already passed Renzo Piano’s modern entrance, which belongs to the same scheme as the open-air stage.
The open-air stage
Today the site doubles as an open-air stage, known as Pjazza Teatru Rjal. It presents concerts, shows, carnival events, ballet and other performances, and it draws theatre enthusiasts who like seeing a show beneath ruins and not under a roof. An evening here has a different atmosphere from a normal theatre: the air is warm, the walls are open, and the stone carries sound.
The programme varies through the year, so look at what is on before you go. If you cannot attend a performance, the structure is still worth a few minutes in daylight, when you can see the column details and the way the terrace sits against the street.
Fitting it into a day in Valletta
The site is the first stop of almost every visit to the capital, so it fits naturally at the start or end of a walk down Republic Street. Close by are the Church of Saint Paul’s Shipwreck, on its narrow street, and the Triton Fountain outside the gate, which marks the edge of Floriana. From the ruins you can also walk on to the Upper Barrakka Gardens and the harbour views.
Note the Piano gate itself. The fifth gate on this spot, finished in 2014, has drawn criticism from residents who wanted a more traditional design, so it is worth forming your own view on the contrast between the old stone and the modern cut. Locals tend to have strong opinions, and the subject is easy to raise over a coffee.
Practical points
The ruins can be seen from the street at any time. Mornings are quiet, and the late-afternoon light is the best for photographs, with the stone turning warm. In summer, the open square has little shade, so carry water.
If you want to attend a performance, book ahead for popular events and ask about the seating arrangements. Wear shoes suited to stone steps and uneven paving. After a show, you can walk down Republic Street for a late meal, since many restaurants stay open into the evening.
