Xlendi arrives all at once. The road from Victoria drops through fields, a cleft in the land opens, and below you is a narrow inlet with houses stacked up the sides, boats at the quay and a small beach tucked into the end. It is compact and photogenic, and it feels like a little village that happens to have a sea view.
A small cove in south-west Gozo
Xlendi Bay lies in the south-west of Gozo, in the area of Munxar. Cliffs rise on both sides of the inlet, which makes the cove sheltered and gives it a distinctly picturesque shape. The beach is made of pebbles rather than sand, and it is small. In summer it is crowded, and finding a spot close to the water can take patience.
What the beach lacks in size it makes up for in setting. A promenade runs along the front, restaurants face the water, and the cliffs form a backdrop that changes colour through the day. It is a place where the scenery does as much work as the sea.
The water
The sea in the cove is calm, shallow and warm in summer. That combination makes it suitable even for families with small children, who can paddle safely near the edge. The shape of the inlet protects it from wind, though conditions can still change, so a glance at the sea before you enter is always sensible.
Xlendi is also popular with divers and snorkellers. The clear water and rocky sides of the inlet are good for watching marine life from the surface. If you want to dive, use a licensed centre rather than going out on your own, since the currents near the mouth of the cove can differ from the sheltered water inside.
Eating by the water
Kiosks, snack bars and cafes line the beach and the road around it, so nobody goes hungry or thirsty. Near Xlendi there are fishing villages, and local cafes take advantage of this with a good choice of seafood. A plate of fish eaten at a table by the quay, with boats moving gently below, is one of the easy pleasures of the island.
Prices and quality differ from one place to another, so it helps to look at a few menus. In the high season, book a table for dinner, because the best seats by the water go quickly.
Walking out of the cove
The cliffs around Xlendi invite exploration. Paths lead up from the village, and the views of the cove from above show how closely the buildings cling to the sides. A short walk gives a sense of the coastline, and a longer one brings you toward the Sanap Cliffs, which are among the most dramatic stretches of the Gozo coast. Wear proper shoes, take water, and keep clear of the edges.
Victoria, the main town of Gozo, is a short distance away. Its Cittadella and market streets make a good morning, which leaves the afternoon free for a swim at Xlendi.
Timing the visit
Xlendi is busiest from late morning to late afternoon in July and August. The best times are early, when the cove is calm, and in the evening, when the day-trippers have left and the cliffs catch the last light. In spring and autumn the sea is still pleasant, and the village is quieter and easier to enjoy.
The nearest parking is limited, and the road down into the village can be slow when traffic builds. A bus from Victoria avoids that, and a late meal by the water is a good way to finish a day on southern Gozo.
Before you go
Bring sandals or water shoes for the pebbles, which are uncomfortable to walk on barefoot. A light towel dries quickly in the sun, and a small umbrella helps on a beach where natural shade is limited by the cliffs.
Walking up from the front to the cliff paths involves steps and slopes, so wear shoes that suit it. Check the weather too: a strong wind can send waves into the inlet and make the sea less comfortable, even though the cove is normally calm. If the sea is rough on the day, the promenade and the cliff paths still reward the trip.
